From honeycomb to fully-grown updates to clear versus damier, PFW closes with multiple bangs. The Creative Director of Alexander McQueen has a bee in her bonnet this spring – and that’s quite a good thing! My hero, Sarah Burton, need not resort to furs and other gimmicks for McQueen’s Spring ’13 collection. Beautiful clothes speak volumes, and volume we got: exposed bustiers, bustles, va-va-voom hips, Tudor-inspired hoopskirts exploding to infinity and beyond, fabulous floral-chiffons, and ‘50s swing skirts. But most interesting is Sarah’s new obsession with bees (beekeeper hat included). As a result, the Heroine bag comes smaller and in honeycomb cutout, for a splash of peek-a-boo playfulness.
At Miu Miu, Prada’s rebellious little sister has grown up into a confident femme fatale. Not only does she slink in slouchy skirt-suits, some with oversized fur stoles, others with a dash of bare tummy (she’s grown up but not old), she also has a new bag. It’s her own rendition of the “ladies who lunch” bag. Much likely her boxy jackets and languid pencil skirts, it’s loosely structured and still packs plenty of attitude.
From a coming-out party to a celebration of pretty women, Valentino is officially the reigning master of Ladies With Edge. Skirts flounced, penciled, laser-cut, and floor-sweeping are all so feminine (and mostly very lacy), and the accompanying bags make for an impeccable counterbalance: flat coral crocodile clutches and nude rockstud-trimmed PVC in the form of grab-happy wristlets. At last, Louis Vuitton delivered what I had hoped they would: damier has always been my preferred LV print, and Marc Jacobs was all about “the grid” this season. Checks abounded in all incarnations, taken to mod heights, particularly with the addition of a Pop-Arty gingko flower. Next spring calls for multiple flings!
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